What Is Facial Acid Therapy? [Benefits, Side Effects + Steps]
Facial Acid Therapy is a dermatological treatment and skincare method. In this procedure, dermatologists use various mild chemical acids to improve skin quality and treat issues such as dark spots, acne, pigmentation, fine wrinkles, and enlarged pores. Depending on the type of acid used, its concentration, and the individual’s skin type, the treatment can be entirely superficial or penetrate more deeply.
In this article from Dr. Fakhriya Magazine, we will explore what Facial Acid Therapy is, how it is performed, and what its potential benefits and side effects are.
What Is Acid Therapy?
Acid therapy is essentially a controlled form of chemical peeling. During the procedure, dermatologists use Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA), or Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA) with the aim of removing dead skin cells from the surface, stimulating the growth of new cells, and improving the texture and tone of the skin.
Below, you can see before-and-after photos of facial acid therapy:
Contrary to common belief, acid therapy is not just a simple cosmetic technique. Depending on how it is performed, the ingredients used, the individual’s skin condition, and treatment goals, it can also have a medical aspect. Acid therapy should always be carried out under the supervision of a dermatologist. If performed unprofessionally, there is a risk of severe skin irritation, inflammation, or even scarring.
If you are unsure of your skin type or whether acid therapy would benefit your skin, you can contact us to receive the necessary consultation.
You can see the common acids used in acid therapy in the table below:
| English Name | Main Uses | |
|---|---|---|
| Glycolic Acid (AHA) | – Brightens skin– Reduces dark spots and fine lines | |
| Lactic Acid (AHA) | – Suitable for sensitive skin– Hydrating and softening | |
| Salicylic Acid (BHA) | – Controls oil– Treats acne– Reduces inflammation | |
| Malic Acid (AHA) | – Helps treat pigmentation and improve skin texture | |
| Mandelic Acid (AHA) | – Suitable for darker skin or skin prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | |
| Gluconolactone (PHA) | – Suitable for very sensitive skin– Has antioxidant properties | |
| Citric Acid | – Mild AHA– Brightens skin and balances pH | |
| Azelaic Acid | – Anti-inflammatory– Reduces redness– Treats acne and rosacea | |
| Ferulic Acid | – Powerful antioxidant– Stabilizes Vitamin C | |
| L-Ascorbic Acid | – Brightening– Anti-spot and antioxidant | |
| Kojic Acid | – Inhibits melanin production– Strong anti-spot effect |
What Are the Steps of Facial Acid Therapy?
The steps of acid therapy can vary depending on its purpose. In a standard and professional procedure performed in a dermatologist’s office, the following stages are typically involved:
Initial Assessment and Professional Consultation
At this stage, the dermatologist determines the skin type (oily, dry, combination, sensitive) and evaluates skin issues such as dark spots, acne, enlarged pores, or pigmentation. The patient’s medical and medication history is also reviewed. You should provide precise answers to questions like:
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Do you use Retinol or Tretinoin (Retinoid/Retin-A)?
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Have you taken or are currently taking oral anti-acne medications like Isotretinoin (Roaccutane)?
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Do you use topical antibiotics such as Clindamycin or Benzoyl Peroxide?
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Do you have a history of cold sores, allergies, or sensitivities?
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What is your goal with acid therapy?
You should also get answers from your doctor regarding:
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Which type of acid is most suitable for my skin and why?
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How many sessions are needed to see results?
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Will acid therapy interfere with my current skincare products?
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Could my skin worsen after the therapy, e.g., more acne or darker spots?
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What are normal post-treatment reactions, and which signs are concerning?
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What is the proper interval between sessions, and can I combine it with other treatments like laser?
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Is this treatment reversible or permanent?
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What foods, medications, or activities should I avoid before and after acid therapy?
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Can I undergo acid therapy during menstruation, pregnancy, or breastfeeding?
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Does acid therapy help with dark circles, smile lines, or acne scars?
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What post-treatment care is required?
Skin Preparation
In this step, the dermatologist cleanses the skin with gentle, oil-free cleansers to remove any dirt, creams, sunscreen, or makeup.
If necessary, special toners may be applied to balance the skin’s pH. Sometimes, the doctor uses medical-grade alcohol or acetone for complete degreasing, ensuring more even acid penetration. The areas around the eyes, nostrils, and lips are protected with petroleum jelly or protective ointments to prevent direct contact with the acid.
Acid Application
Using a pad, brush, or specialized tools such as a syringe, the dermatologist applies the acid evenly across the skin. Timing is crucial at this stage, typically lasting 2–10 minutes depending on the type of acid and the skin’s tolerance. During this period, you may feel mild stinging, warmth, or tingling—these reactions are completely normal and indicate the acid is working. The doctor carefully monitors your skin to prevent severe irritation.
Acid Neutralization
During this stage, the dermatologist applies a neutralizing solution to deactivate the acid completely and end the peeling process in a controlled manner. This step is necessary for acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid to prevent excessive irritation and skin damage.
Some acids, such as salicylic acid, are self-neutralizing, meaning they naturally deactivate over time and do not require a neutralizing solution. In these cases, the doctor usually removes excess acid with lukewarm water or a damp cotton pad. Neutralizing the acid is not painful, though the skin may appear red and inflamed.
Final Cleansing and Rinsing
The purpose of rinsing the skin is to completely remove any remaining acid, neutralizer, or natural skin secretions, preparing the skin for the healing phase.
For this, the doctor typically uses sterilized lukewarm water or a cleansing serum (Normal Saline), which not only gently cleanses the skin but also soothes and cools it.
Use of Repairing Products
At this stage, the dermatologist usually applies a healing cream containing Allantoin or Bisabolol. These ingredients help regenerate skin tissue, reduce redness, itching, or stinging, and create a mild protective layer.
If the skin appears drier than usual or feels tight, the doctor may also use a hydrating serum containing Hyaluronic Acid to restore moisture and prevent early dehydration.
Next, the dermatologist applies a high-SPF physical sunscreen, typically containing Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide.
Post-Facial Acid Therapy Care
Key post-treatment care steps include:
Strict Sun Protection
From the moment you leave the clinic, your skin becomes highly sensitive to sunlight.
Whether in winter or summer, indoors or by a window, UVA and UVB rays can damage the skin, causing dark spots or pigmentation. Therefore, you should:
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Apply a broad-spectrum physical sunscreen with at least SPF 30, containing Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide, daily.
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Reapply sunscreen every 2–3 hours, even indoors.
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Wear a wide-brimmed hat or sunglasses when going outside.
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Avoid sunbathing, tanning beds, or exposure to direct heat sources such as heaters, saunas, or stoves.
Consistent and Careful Moisturization
Acid therapy increases moisture evaporation from the skin, which can lead to dryness, tightness, flaking, or stinging. Therefore, you should:
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Use fragrance-free, alcohol-free, non-comedogenic moisturizers.
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Ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramides, and Allantoin are particularly beneficial at this stage.
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Apply moisturizer 2–3 times a day, even if your skin does not feel dry.
Avoid Skin Irritation
During the first 3–5 days, the skin should not come into contact with irritating substances, motions, or products. Activities to avoid include:
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Physical scrubs or chemical exfoliants.
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Products containing Retinol, high-concentration Vitamin C, or non-standard Niacinamide.
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Waxing, threading, or using cleansing devices.
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Touching, scratching, or picking at the skin, especially if peeling occurs.
Use of Healing and Anti-Inflammatory Creams
To reduce inflammation, redness, and support epidermal regeneration, the doctor usually prescribes a healing cream. The most effective ingredients include:
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Allantoin
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Bisabolol
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Panthenol
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Zinc Oxide for soothing irritated areas
Be Patient
Do not expect perfectly smooth, glowing skin immediately after acid therapy. For a few days, your skin may peel, become red, or develop minor breakouts. This is a normal part of the healing process.
Side Effects of Facial Acid Therapy
Side effects vary depending on the type of acid, peeling depth, skin type, and pre- and post-care. Common, temporary side effects include:
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Redness and skin inflammation
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Dryness and peeling
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Mild stinging or itching
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Temporary darkening of the skin
Rare but important side effects may include:
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Dark spots: Can occur if sun protection is ignored or if the skin becomes severely inflamed, especially in olive or darker skin tones.
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Uneven lightening: In rare cases, particularly with strong peels, some areas may appear lighter than the surrounding skin. This is usually temporary but can sometimes be permanent.
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New breakouts or acne
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Scarring, blisters, or infection
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Allergic reactions or severe sensitivity to chemicals
Benefits of Facial Acid Therapy
The main benefits include:
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Exfoliating dead and dull skin cells
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Reducing dark spots and acne scars
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Controlling oil and reducing under-the-skin acne
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Improving skin texture and minimizing pores
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Stimulating collagen production and rejuvenating skin
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Enhancing the effectiveness of skincare products
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Gradually smoothing scars and surface irregularities
Effectiveness of Acid Therapy for Dark Spots
Due to controlled exfoliation, acid therapy accelerates cellular renewal and can gradually lighten superficial and moderate dark spots. It is most effective for surface-level pigmentation, usually requiring multiple sessions and careful aftercare.
For deeper or resistant spots, acid therapy alone may not be sufficient. In such cases, dermatologists may combine it with other treatments such as laser therapy, microneedling, or specialized anti-spot creams.
Suitable Skin Types for Acid Therapy
Acid therapy can be applied to various skin types:
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Oily and acne-prone skin: Best suited for acids like Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid, which clear pores and control excess oil.
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Combination skin: Benefits from mild, targeted acids like Lactic Acid and Mandelic Acid to avoid over-drying certain areas.
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Dry and sensitive skin: Doctors use low concentrations of gentle acids such as Lactic or Mandelic Acid to prevent inflammation or damage.
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Dark skin: More prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so mild acids are preferred.
Appropriate Age for Acid Therapy
Acid therapy is generally suitable from age 18 and up, for skin with issues like acne, spots, or dullness. People aged 40–50 can benefit for rejuvenation, reducing fine lines, and improving skin texture. For individuals over 60, acid therapy is used with greater caution and often combined with other methods like microneedling or laser.
Who Should Avoid Acid Therapy?
Acid therapy is not recommended, or should be delayed, for individuals who:
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Have active cold sores or skin infections such as psoriasis, eczema, or inflammatory dermatitis
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Suffer from severe inflammatory or cystic acne
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Are taking medications like Isotretinoin
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Have very thin or fragile skin prone to damage
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Have autoimmune diseases like lupus or are on immunosuppressive therapy
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Have uncontrolled diabetes
Additionally, doctors do not recommend acid therapy for children, pregnant women, or breastfeeding mothers.
Is Acid Therapy Effective for Acne?
Acid therapy is a well-known and effective method for treating acne. Its success depends on skin type, type of acne, acid type, concentration, and number of sessions. For example, Salicylic Acid is oil-soluble and penetrates deep into pores, removing excess oil, dead cells, and impurities that cause breakouts.
Which Acne Responds Best to Acid Therapy?
Acid therapy can help treat:
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Blackheads and whiteheads
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Superficial and subcutaneous acne
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Oily, acne-prone skin
Severe inflammatory or cystic acne may require specialized medication, as acid therapy alone may not be sufficient.
Real User Experiences Before and After Acid Therapy
By looking at the experiences of several users before and after acid therapy, a few key points can be highlighted:
| Concern | Reality Based on User Experiences |
|---|---|
| Can acid therapy make the skin darker or increase pigmentation? | Yes. If the skin is not properly tested or you are not a suitable candidate, pigmentation may worsen. |
| Is a patch test necessary before acid therapy? | Yes. It is essential. |
| What is the real effectiveness of acid therapy? | Users reported improvements in skin tone, oil control, and overall clarity. |
Is Acid Therapy Effective for Enlarged Pores?
Enlarged pores are often caused by excess oil and accumulation of dead skin cells, and acid therapy can be effective in treating them. For example, AHAs like Glycolic Acid remove dead surface cells and help prevent clogged pores. Acid therapy also stimulates the skin, increasing collagen production, which helps tighten the skin and reduce pore size. However, combined treatments and consistent post-therapy care typically yield better results.
How Does Acid Therapy in a Facial Differ from a Regular Facial?
The key differences between acid therapy and a standard facial are shown in the table below:
| Factor | Regular Facial | Acid Therapy in a Facial |
|---|---|---|
| Type of Exfoliation | Mechanical or mild with scrubs and brushes | Chemical, using specialized acids like Glycolic and Salicylic Acid |
| Therapeutic Effects | Cleanses the skin surface and provides temporary freshness | Treats dark spots, blackheads, uneven texture, and fine wrinkles |
| Longevity of Results | Requires frequent repetition at shorter intervals | More long-lasting |
| Post-Treatment Care | Usually no special care needed | Requires more precise and careful post-treatment care |
Is Acid Therapy Safe at Home?
Acid therapy can be performed at home. Currently, many brands produce serums and products containing acids that can be incorporated into your daily skincare routine. Products containing Hyaluronic Acid are considered the best acid-based options for at-home acid therapy.
Facial Acid Therapy in a Nutshell
Acid therapy is a specialized method of chemical exfoliation that uses various acids, such as Glycolic, Lactic, and Salicylic Acid, to reduce dark spots, acne, fine wrinkles, and enlarged pores. Unlike a regular facial, which primarily focuses on surface cleansing, acid therapy works more deeply and can significantly improve the skin’s structure.
If you are looking for a safe and professional way to undergo acid therapy, you can visit Dr. Fakhriya’s website and consult with top dermatologists. Additionally, Dr. Fakhriya’s clinic in Muscat and Sohar offers the opportunity to easily get in touch with us through this page.
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